Mapo Tofu: The Best Tofu Dish You’re Not Making

Mapo tofu is a spicy, salty, intensely flavorful Szechuan dish. I think that it is the best tofu dish I’ve ever made, and furthermore, that it offers one of the best deliciousness-per-dollar ratios out there. And no, we’re not talking crunchy-granola tofu here — mapo tofu also brings ground pork and chicken broth to the party. The tofu, nonetheless, is a key component — it acts a beautiful, silky vehicle for the unctiousness of pork, the numbing spiciness of Szechuan peppercorns, and the intense flavor of fermented black beans mixed with chili paste.

Ma po tofu!

Most of the ingredients are easy to find, but there are two that are a bit trickier to find in your local grocery store. Those are Szechuan peppercorns and fermented black beans. You can generally find chili bean paste around, but in case you can’t, Amazon comes through on that too.

Ingredients ready to go

The amounts of seasonings given will make a potent batch, but once you get a feel for how the affect the final taste, you’ll discover that you can pretty much go nuts with them and get an even more intense, delicious dish.

The ingredients below will feed about 6 people — and excepting the seasonings, you’ll note they are all truly inexpensive.

Ingredients to fry:

  • 2 blocks of silken tofu, cut into ~1″ cubes
  • 1 lb ground pork
  • 4 tablespoons minced ginger
  • 6 cloves garlic
  • 4 scallions, divided into minced white parts and sliced green parts
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns, freshly ground
  • 1 tablespoon chili bean paste

Ingredients for sauce:

  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup chicken broth
  • 2 teaspoons corn starch

Let’s Do It!

Combine the sauce ingredients and set them aside.

Heat up a wok or large sauté pan and add the sesame oil. Sauté the garlic, ginger, scallions, and peppercorns until they’ve softened a bit, about 2 minutes. Add in the fermented black beans and cook for about two more minutes.

Now, add in the ground pork, split it apart with the spatula into tiny chunks, and cook until it’s mostly done. At this point, add in the chili bean paste and stir to combine. Add the tofu in, and toss instead of stir so you don’t break it up too much.

Add the sauce and simmer while gently tossing ingredients until thickened, about 2-3 minutes.

Serve with chopped scallions for garnish on top of or aside white rice.

Late Spring Olivey Pasta

You know when you buy olives from the store in little deli containers? They’re usually lemon/garlic or chili pepper something, and you leave Whole Foods or wherever with a huge grin, knowing you’ll pop them into your mouth one by one, grinning ear to ear at the salty, savory goodness of the olives. Then you get down to the last few, the ones bathing in the vinegar and oil at the bottom of the container, and you pause. They’re kind of greasy, and you think “maybe  I can do something with this oily goodness?”

This is a recipe borne from that very situation. This recipe gets all fancy and uses fiddleheads since they’re in season in New England late spring, but it’d be almost as delicious if you used small bits of broccoli.

Ingredients:

  • 1 box of pasta (I prefer penne or gemelli)
  • 1/2 lb fiddleheads (or sub finely chopped broccoli)
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 2 vine tomatoes
  • 1/2 lb fresh mozzarella cheese
  • the last bit of a container of olives packed in oil and spices
  • black pepper
  • kosher salt

Dice the tomatoes and cheese into small cubes.

Steam the fiddleheads by placing them in a pot (ideally in a steaming basket, but I don’t have one..) with ~1/2″ of boiling water for 2 minutes.

Boil the pasta according to the package directions. Once it’s done, strain the water out in a colander and rinse the pasta in cold water to stop it from cooking further. Toss the pasta in the oil and stuff from the olive container, then add the rest of the ingredients. Add a couple good punches of salt and pepper to taste. Stir everything to combine and enjoy on a porch with some rose or vinho verde. Happy summer!

‘Gansett, Bacon, and Ginger Mussels

Mussels are one of those foods that has a really excellent effort to impressiveness ratio. They take less time and care to prepare than, say, a decent bowl of pasta, but they imply a luxuriousness on par with a well-executed roast or something. Even better, they cost not much more than a decent bowl of pasta to make.

I’d picked up a few mussels from a store a few weeks ago, only to arrive home to find I was out of white wine, which is what I’d need to make the canonical Moules Marinare recipe. I poked around the kitchen and picked up the next best thing — a bottle of Narrangansett beer. Since the beer wasn’t going to contribute quite as much flavor to the recipe as wine would, I figured I should amp up the rest of the ingredients to keep the whole thing punchy. Enter ginger and bacon. Let’s roll!

Ingredients:

  • 1.5 to 2 lbs mussels, cleaned and debearded
  • 4 strips of bacon
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3-5 tablespoons ginger, minced
  • 1 tomato, coarsely cubed
  • 2 bottles Narragansett beer (you could also fancy it up with a Belgian ale or a lighter brown ale, if you like) – that’s one for the mussels, one for you!

First, put the bacon in the bottom of a stock pot on very low heat. You want to extract the maximum fat possible from the bacon without burning it, as it’ll provide the goodness foundation for the rest of the recipe. Allow it to cook for a few minutes until browned on the bottom, then flip it. Let it cook until it’s browned on both sides, then remove the bacon from the pot and reserve.

Add the ginger and onion to the stock pot with the bacon grease, and cook it over low heat for about 5-7 minutes, enough time for them to get soft. Add garlic and cook for another 1-2 minutes.

Add the tomato and beer to the pot and raise the heat to high, allowing it to come to a boil. Once boiling, dump the mussels on top, cover the pot, and allow to steam for 5-6 minutes. Dump the mussels and liquid into another pot or container, then back into the pot to coat them with the gingery goodness. Just before serving, dice the bacon you’d reserved earlier and sprinkle on top.

After chowing down on the mussels, use some crusty bread to sop up the ginger/beer/bacon liquid, which will exhibit nearly illegal levels of goodness. Cheers!

Sazerac Cocktail Cake

Last week was Andrew Rausch‘s birthday, and my friend Katie and I set about coming up with an irresistible cake that would be appropriately celebratory. No time for funfetti or any of that nonsense–it was time to get serious.

Now, in my house, it’s become tradition to celebrate birthdays with what we’ve affectionately deemed a “shot cake,” which means any old cake with shot glasses on top with a bit of high proof liquor floated on top of something more palatable which are lit and extinguished in lieu of candles.

Then it hit us: why not use the shot cake as inspiration and create a cake that ITSELF was a cocktail? Indeed, there was no reason not to try, and the Sazerac cake was born. The goal in the cake was to create a dessert that would be close to the spirit of a Sazerac cocktail without simply being a cake soaked in liquor.

The resulting cake is evocative of a Sazerac, but is still unmistakably a dessert. (Personally, I think it could stand a bit more absinthe and Peychaud’s to make the flavors more pronounced, even.) If you’re looking for a twist on the usual type of dessert, give it a try — or try cakifiying another classic cocktail and get back to me — I’d love to try a Negroni cake.

Cake ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 1/4 cups unsalted butter, warmed up to room temperature
  • 2 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 5 large eggs
  • 2/3 cup rye (or bourbon)
  • 1/2 oz Peychaud’s bitters
  • 1 tablespoon absinthe
  • 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 extra orange, for twisting + garnish

Icing ingredients:

  • 1/2 cup vegetable shortening
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter
  • 4 cups confectioner’s sugar
  • 1/2 oz Peychaud’s bitters
  • 1/4 cup rye (or bourbon)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, and butter two shallow 9″ cake pans.

Beat the sugar, butter, and orange zest with an electric mixer (or just a lot of stirring) until it’s smooth. Add eggs one at a time, mixing continuously so the mixture keeps a creamy texture throughout. Still mixing, beat in the rye, bitters, and absinthe. Add in the flour slowly and continue to mix until the batter is battery-seeming enough, then distribute it intwo the two cake pans. Put them in the oven and bake for 45 minutes.

In another bowl — the frosting bowl —  mix the butter and shortening, then add in the booze and bitters while continuing to mix. Add the confectioners’ sugar while mixing until the frosting is frosting-y enough. Place the bowl in the fridge while the cake bakes.

After the cake is done, let it cool in the pans for about half an hour at room temperature. Remove one of the cake halves (the less attractive one, preferably), and place it on the bottom. Top it with frosting, then stack the second half on top and frost it as well.

Garnish with an orange twist and serve. Optional: make a shot-glass sized Sazerac on top. Instead of rinsing with absinthe, float it on top and ignite it in place of candles. It’s birthday time!

Spicy Beety Cabbagey Salad

This summer, my roommates and I have been doing a produce CSA, which has meant we’ve had a ton of veggies around that we might not otherwise have.

My favorite discovery amongst those abundant and diverse vegetables has been beets. I’d never really paid all that much attention to beets before this year — I’d have the occasionally, but never looked to them for a delicious meal. Meaty, sweet, and colorful, beets make for a solid backbone of a meal.

I invented this cole slaw-ish recipe while trying to come up with a savory, spicy take on the ordinary beet salad, and I’d say it worked out pretty well. The vinegary, smoky spiciness of Mexican Valentina hot sauce is the defining note, backed up by the savory sweetness of honey, the depth of ginger, and the tang of mustard and vinegar.

If you’re looking for an alternative to the same old leafy salad, please to give it a try — you won’t be disappointed.

Ingredients:

  • 4 large (~3.5″ diameter) beets, quartered
  • 1/2 head of cabbage
  • 1/4 cup Valentina hot sauce (acceptable substitution: Chipotle Tabasco sauce)
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • one large piece of ginger, diced
  • 2 tbsp whole grain mustard
  • 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 3 tbsp honey
  • salt and pepper

Place the beets in a large saucepan and fill with enough water to submerge. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and allow the beets to cook for about 20 minutes, or until they’re tender. Remove the beets from the water and wait for them to cool.

Mix hot sauce, ginger, olive oil, mustard, honey, and vinegar and whisk to combine.

Cut the cabbage into thin strips and place in a bowl. Add a few pinches of salt for flavor and to draw out the moisture a bit. Peel and cut the beets, which have hopefully cooled to a temperature that won’t terribly burn you at this point, and add those to the bowl. Add pepper to taste (be generous — this makes it extra tasty!), then pour the dressing mixture over the salad and toss thoroughly.

Allow it to sit for a bit in the fridge to cool down and to let the flavors (and colors!) combine. That’s a damn tasty salad.

Mixology Monday Bonus: The Old Martinique

While tasting through liquors trying to come up with a cocktail for MxMo this week, Andrew and I decided we really wanted to do a rum drink. We had won some bottles of Rhum Clement at Tipple Trivia hosted by Upstairs on the Square and Citysearch Boston, and I’d just picked up some Bittermen’s Tiki bitters at The Boston Shaker — the two liquids make a natural, delicious pairing.

The theme, as mentioned in our other, better theme-matching entry, is “Brown, Bitter, and Stirred,” which this second cocktail isn’t really in the spirit of. That said, it still turned out pretty delicious.

The Old Martinique

  • 1 1/2 oz Rhum Clement VSOP
  • 1/2 eyedropper (about a barspoon) Bittermen’s tiki bitters
  • ginger beer (Barritt’s)
  • mint sprig, for garnish

Stir the rum and bitters in a pint glass on ice. Strain into a coupe or cocktail glass, then top off with ginger beer. Garnish with a mint sprig.

This drink actually started close to the theme, as we tried out variants on a basic rum Old Fashioned. (Incidentally, the Clement, tiki bitters, and a few drops of simple syrup make for a delicious drink.) Drawing inspiration from our experiments there, the sweltering heat on Sunday, and from the deliciousness of the Old Cuban, we figured “hey, why not top that off with something bubbly?”

The result is somewhere in between an old fashioned and a mild Dark and Stormy. It’s hardly brown, it’s hardly bitter, and it’s only stirred in the beginning.. but it sure is good. The drink starts with ginger, allspice, and cinnamon on the nose, followed by buttery vanilla flavors and the zing from ginger and carbonation in the ginger beer on the finish. Refreshing and delicious!

Oh, and there’s a video for this one too, although there’s a barking dog in the middle of it that makes it unintelligible — our outdoor studio needs some tweaking, but it’s good for a laugh at least:

Justice Kitchen: The Old Martinique Cocktail from Anthony Roldan on Vimeo.

Mixology Monday: The Beretta Cocktail

This is an exciting week on Justice Kitchen — not only is it the return of blog entries after a hot, lazy summer, but it’s the first cocktail post, the first inter-blog interaction, and the first video post!

The occasion for all this is Mixology Monday, a monthly-ish cocktail party where bloggers create and share recipes based around a theme. This month’s theme is “Brown, Bitter, and Stirred,” the signature drink order (and blog title) of Lush Life Productions’ Lindsey Johnson. I’d been a long-time admirer of Mixology Monday and figured this was a great one to start with. On Sunday afternoon, Andrew Rausch and I teamed up to work out a couple cocktails we could enter into this week’s fun, and here’s the result:

The Beretta Cocktail

  • 1 1/2 oz mezcal (Del Maguey Vida)
  • 1/3 oz Fernet Branca
  • 3/4 tsp Amaro Meletti
  • 3/4 oz sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica)
  • 2 dashes orange bitters (Regan’s)

Stir ingredients together in a pint glass with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass or coupe, then flame an orange peel on top. Garnish with said orange peel, and enjoy the smoky bitterness.

For this drink, we were inspired by the Smoking Gun cocktail, as seen in Imbibe Magazine a while back. The Smoking Gun has a badass name, two incredibly assertive base ingredients (scotch and Fernet Branca), and it is delicious.

We figured we’d amp up the Italian ingredients a bit (thus the Beretta name), and started off with a super strong mix of mezcal and Fernet that was a challenge to sip on. To sweeten things up a bit, we added in a bit of Amaro Meletti and Carpano Antica, which balance out the bitterness while still contributing rich flavors.

After that, the drink was missing a little something. Two dashes of Regan’s orange bitters sweeten and brighten up the nose of the drink a bit, and the flamed orange peel really brings the orangey and smokey flavors together.

The resulting drink is pretty badass — it’s smokey, orangey, and pungent on the nose, then aggressively bitter at first sip with the menthol of the Fernet and smokiness of the mezcal, followed by the milder chocolate and licorice notes from the vermouth and Amero Meletti, and finishing with a lingering bitterness that leaves you hankering for another sip.

It was close to 90 degrees in the room as we were mixing up the drinks, which was hardly an ideal environment for a digestif-ish bitterness bomb. Still good, but I could see this cocktail being very at home on a blustery fall evening after eating a hearty meal.

Still curious? Watch Andrew mix up the drink in Justice Kitchen’s first VIDEO entry:

Justice Kitchen: Beretta Cocktail from Anthony Roldan on Vimeo.

Gazpacho Makes Hot Summer Nights more Pleasant and ZESTY

I’m not sure how the temperature is where you are right now, but in my apartment it’s brutally hot. One of my favorite dishes for hot days is gazpacho, the cold, zesty Spanish tomato soup. It’s beautifully refreshing, doesn’t heat up your kitchen, and can easily be made in advance — in fact, a day or two in the fridge tends to improve it.

There are a couple conflicting theories about the proper way to make gazpacho — the first (and more traditional way) is to finely blend all the contents, resulting in a sort of V8-esque soup, and the second is to coarsely chop all the vegetables, ending up with sort of crispy vegetable salad drowning in tomato juice. I’m a fan of both approaches, but I always prefer a hybrid approach. We’re going to dice all the veggies as if we were going to make a coarse gazpacho, but then blend only half of them. Sneaky!

Also, rather than starting with a tomato juice style approach, I like to take a Bloody Mary-ish approach to the liquid portion, giving the whole thing a bit more of a substantial backbone and complementing the tomato flavor with the acidity of lime juice and savoriness of Worcestershire. Mmm!

Bear in mind that gazpacho is also pretty freeform — the combo of vegetables I’m about to describe makes a tasty dish, but experimenting with different flavors can yield equally tasty or tastier results!

Without further ado, let’s get down to it:

Ingredients:

  • One 48oz bottle tomato juice (I use Whole Foods 365)
  • 6 tomatoes
  • 2 cucumbers (peeled or unpeeled, your choice)
  • 1 medium-sized red onion
  • 1 green bell pepper
  • 6 cloves of garlic
  • 0-4 jalapeños, depending on your spice tolerance
  • one small bunch cilantro
  • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup lime juice — either pre-made or the juice of two limes
  • 3 tablespoons hot sauce
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

Chop the tomatoes, pepper, and cucumbers into about 1/2″ cubes. Coarsely chop the red onion. Cut the cilantro leaves and upper portion of the stalks into small pieces (cuts about 1/2″ apart) and discard the bottom portion.

Finely chop the jalapeños, if you decided to use them, and mince the garlic cloves.

Reserve half of the vegetables in a container, and place the remainder in the bowl you plan to use to hold the gazpacho in.

Add the red wine vinegar, olive oil, lime juice, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce to the bowl. Add in half the tomato juice from the bottle, and blend with an immersion blender until large chunks of vegetables are no longer visible. (If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can also place everything in the first part here into a blender or food processor, then put it in the serving bowl afterward.)

Add in your reserved veggies and place the whole bowl in the fridge for some time between two hours and two days — the longer it sits, the more the flavors will meld, resulting in a more flavorful gazpacho.

Serve with toasted bread (I did it with some grilled brioche and it ruled!), alongside a main course, or just slurp it out of tupperware in the fridge for a midnight cooldown. Yum!


Pizza in the Morning..

Making pizza at home is always more fun that it should be — I think it brings me back to times when my parents were cooking and I’d get to “help” by arranging pepperoni slices on top in smiley faces and generally loading up a pizza with all my favorite toppings, often to the great detriment of the final product.

If you buy pre-made dough, it’s also super quick. There’s something super satisfying about making your dough from scratch, to be sure, but on a weeknight, when you’re making a bunch of pies, or when you’re just lazy, store (or restaurant!)-bought dough is nice. When making pizza – or just about anything – I tend to overbuy and end up with too much dough. And what to do with it the next day? I’ll tell you what: breakfast pizza.

So next time you have pizza assembly leftovers (or just want a kick-ass brunch food!), check it out:

Makes one breakfast pizza, enough to feed four people.

Ingredients:

  • 1 large pizza dough – I used one from Bertucci’s, who will sell you their dough for real cheap!
  • ~8 slices bacon, about 1/2 lb
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 medium onion, chopped into thin slices
  • 1/2 cup pizza sauce – I used Dave’s Fresh Pasta‘s arrabbiata sauce
  • 1/3 lb mozzarella cheese
  • black pepper
  • kosher salt

Of course, like any pizza, you can play with these toppings as much as you want.

Start by preheating your oven to 500 degrees. Fry up the bacon in a cast iron skillet until it’s on the soggy side of done — it’ll finish up a bit in the oven. Pull it and pat it extra dry with paper towels — you don’t want grease to sog up your pizza. Once patted dry, cut it into small pieces.

Roll out the dough and put it onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  (If you don’t have any parchment paper handy, a lightly floured baking sheet will do. Parchment paper saves time on cleanup, though!) Sparingly spread the tomato sauce out on the pizza, then top with onions, cheese, and bacon.

The crown jewel of the breakfast pizza is of course the eggs; there are two ways you can do it that will both work great, but it depends what you’re aiming for. I did both, in the name of science.

Option A – the sunny side up: If you’re lazy and like runny eggs, the best thing to do is just to crack the three eggs on top of the pizza, then put it in the oven; they’ll end up sunny-side-up by the time the pizza is done.

Option B – the scramble: If you want something more solid, start a nonstick skillet over low heat with a teaspoon of reserved bacon grease. (Or oil, if you’re feeling lame.) Whip the eggs in a bowl, then add to the skillet once it’s warm. The goal here is to have very, very lightly cooked eggs — liquidy, but just starting to solidify:

Once they’re this done, dump the liquidy eggs on top of the pizza; they’ll be solid enough not to leak everywhere, but done enough to have a thin layer of delicious eggs on your finished product.

Sprinkle salt and black pepper on top to taste.

Throw it in the oven for 10-12 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Pull it out and enjoy!

Serious Justice: Kogi BBQ Truck

I’m out in Los Angeles this weekend and had the opportunity to check out the Kogi BBQ Food Truck. I’m not normally going to write about restaurants here (that’s what my Yelp page is for..), but there was something about Kogi that stuck me as especially just.

Kogi serves awesome Korean/Mexican fusion food – think Korean spicy pork tacos (pictured above) and quesadillas (pictured below). There’s also a sweet street food take on it – also on the menu are Korean beef sliders smothered in jack cheese and sesame-flavored mayo. No boundaries here, just creative combinations of bold flavors in the service of awesome food.

Filled with cheese, pork, and covered in a sesame salsa verde that’s equal parts savory, refreshing, and tangy. Amazing.

Even better, despite the chef winning  a Food + Wine best new chef award, the priciest food clocks in at just $7.

It’s living proof that creative, awesome food doesn’t need to be pretentious, rare, or expensive. Basically, there’s no excuse not to eat delicious stuff all the time. And that is seriously just.